Niacinamide
Also known as: Vitamin B3, Nicotinamide
Key Takeaways
- Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is one of the most versatile skincare ingredients, suitable for virtually all skin types
- It strengthens the skin barrier, reduces hyperpigmentation, controls oil, and has anti-inflammatory properties
- Effective at concentrations of 2-10%, with 5% being the sweet spot for most people
- Pairs well with most other actives including retinol, hyaluronic acid, and vitamin C
A form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces inflammation, and regulates sebum production. One of the most versatile and well-studied active ingredients in modern skincare.
Skin Type Compatibility
Skin Tone Notes
Safe and effective across the Fitzpatrick scale. Particularly beneficial for deeper skin tones prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
What It Does
Niacinamide works by boosting the production of ceramides and fatty acids in the skin, strengthening the lipid barrier. It inhibits melanosome transfer to reduce hyperpigmentation, regulates sebum production to control oiliness, and has anti-inflammatory properties that calm redness and irritation.
Concerns Addressed
How To Use
Apply after cleansing and toning, before heavier creams and oils. Can be used both AM and PM. Works well layered with most other actives. No need to build up tolerance — can be used daily from the start.
Pairs Well With
Hyaluronic Acid
A naturally occurring polysaccharide that can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water. Hyaluronic acid is one of the most effective and universally tolerated hydrating ingredients in skincare, working for every skin type and pairing seamlessly with virtually all actives.
Retinol
The gold standard anti-aging ingredient. Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that accelerates cell turnover, stimulates collagen synthesis, and treats acne, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines. Decades of clinical research back its efficacy.
Salicylic Acid
A beta hydroxy acid (BHA) derived from willow bark. Unlike AHAs, salicylic acid is oil-soluble, allowing it to penetrate into pores and dissolve the sebum and debris that cause blackheads, whiteheads, and acne. The leading OTC ingredient for blemish-prone skin.
Vitamin C
The gold standard brightening and antioxidant ingredient. L-Ascorbic Acid, the most bioavailable form of vitamin C, neutralizes free radicals, inhibits melanin production, and stimulates collagen synthesis. Particularly effective when used in the morning to reinforce sunscreen against UV and environmental damage.
Side Effects
Generally very well tolerated. At high concentrations (above 10%), some users may experience mild flushing or irritation. Start with lower concentrations if you have very sensitive skin.
Key Studies
5% niacinamide significantly reduced wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and improved skin elasticity after 12 weeks.
Niacinamide inhibits melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes, reducing hyperpigmentation.
What Is Niacinamide?
Niacinamide is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3 (niacin) that has become one of the most popular and well-researched active ingredients in skincare. It is a true multitasker that addresses a wide range of skin concerns without the irritation associated with many other active ingredients.
How Does Niacinamide Work?
Niacinamide functions through several mechanisms at the cellular level. It is a precursor to NAD+ and NADP+, coenzymes essential for cellular energy production and DNA repair. In the skin, this translates to enhanced ceramide synthesis, improved barrier function, and regulated melanin production.
Who Should Use Niacinamide?
Almost everyone. Niacinamide is remarkably well-tolerated across all skin types and tones. It is particularly beneficial for those dealing with acne, hyperpigmentation, signs of aging, or a compromised skin barrier.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use niacinamide with vitamin C?
Yes. Despite a persistent myth, modern formulations of niacinamide and vitamin C work well together. The interaction that causes flushing only occurs at very high temperatures and concentrations not found in skincare products.
What concentration of niacinamide should I use?
Most studies show benefits at 2-5%. Higher concentrations (10%) can provide faster results but may cause mild flushing in sensitive skin. Start with 5% and adjust based on your skin's response.
Can niacinamide cause purging?
No. Niacinamide does not increase cell turnover, so it should not cause purging. If you experience breakouts after starting niacinamide, it may be a reaction to another ingredient in the product.